On one of the very last official days of spring, we found some beautiful locally-harvested morels at the Monterey Market in Berkeley. Once home, we pulled a couple of heads of green garlic…
Et voilà, dinner.
Here’s a little recipe:
For each person:
1/4 – 1/3 lb fresh morels
1/4 lb pencil-thin asparagus
1/2 head of green garlic
1 medium shallot, finely minced
2 oz pappardelle
fresh herbs: a little oregano, thyme, (chervil if you have it), and a few basil leaves
butter
vermouth
salt & pepper
grated parmesan
1. Put a big pot of water on to boil. Pappardelle take about 10-12 minutes to cook, during which you should be able to do the rest of the recipe. Put on a small pot of water for the asparagus. You’ll also need a sauté pan for cooking the mushrooms.
2. Prepare the morels: gently wipe the mushrooms with a damp paper towel. Don’t soak them in water as that will mute their flavor and is useless anyway. Cut the larger morels in half.
3. Prepare the garlic: Cut off the hard neck, cut the head of garlic in two, remove the outer skin, and pull out what remains of the hard neck in the center of the head. Place both halves (if making this dish for two) cut-side down and slice across the cloves as thinly as possible, stopping before the roots.
3. Prepare the asparagus: starting from the tip, cut 1-1/2” sections, ending before where the woody part of the stalk starts. Cook in simmering water for 2-4 minutes just until the green brightens up and the asparagus is still slightly crunchy. Rinse under cold water.
4. Prepare the herbs: finely mince the herbs. Tear the basil leaves into pieces.
5. In a tablespoon of butter, sauté garlic and shallot over medium-high heat for a moment. Add the morels and, shaking the pan, continue to cook until the morels still have some crunch and they have given up some liquid. (Note: unlike button mushrooms, don’t cook until the morel juice has evaporated…the juice is the sauce in this dish.) This should take 4 or 5 minutes. Add a splash of vermouth, cook for a minute longer. Salt & pepper to taste.
6. Drain the pasta and put on your plate. Spread the cooked morels over the top, sprinkle with the herbs and a little parmesan. Enjoy.
By the way, when you’re at Monterey Market and want a snack, you couldn’t do better than Gioia Pizzeria just up the block. While there a couple of pizza palaces I have yet to visit (Pizzaiolo in Oakland and Pyzano’s in Castro Valley), Gioia has, by a long shot, my favorite pizza in the Bay Area. De-li-cious. (The slices in the picture are half-sized because Tom and I were sharing.)
Monterey Market
Gioia Pizzeria
Pizzaiolo
Pizano